London Fashion Week’s best ever moments, revisited

London Fashion Week’s best ever moments, revisited


As the fash pack get ready to take over the capital once again, Marie Claire looks back at some of the most beautiful, baffling and memorable London Fashion Week moments ever…

vicotira beckham best london fashion week moments
Photo by TONY KYRIACOU/REX
VICTORIA BECKHAM ON THE CATWALK FOR MARIA GRACHVOGEL

Over 30 years on from its debut, London Fashion Week is still a breeding ground for the world’s boldest and most cutting-edge designers. From Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, to Simone Rocha and Christopher Kane, we’ve produced some of the planet’s most covetable fashion brands and (with the help of clever schemes like NEWGEN and Fashion East in place) we’re already nurturing the next generation of IT Brit labels.

London Fashion Week isn’t all about the clothes, though. From pop icons walking the runway (we’re looking at you Vicky B), to surprise star turn-outs at a graduate’s debut, you can always count on LFW to throw some super-glam surprises at its equally stylish audience.

So in no particular order, London Fashion Week, here are your best bits.

1987 – Meet John Galliano
John Galliano won Designer Of The Year in 1987, after what was considered to be a breakthrough show. The major accolade came just three years after he showed his graduate collection Les Incroyables in 1984, the entirety of which was immediately snapped up by Joan Burstein, founder of London boutique Browns.

1998 – Alexander McQueen And The Spray Robot 
Now Alexander ‘Lee’ McQueen was a man who knew how to put on a show. He smashed all LFW boundaries from the get-go with his debut ‘Highland Rape’ collection back in 1995, but one of our favourite moments ever was his 1998 masterpiece, Number 13. Supermodel Shalom Harlow rotated on a wooden turntable as robotic arms spray painted her tulle dress before the audience’s very eyes. It was a genius statement about the increasingly automated production processes used in the fashion industry and, quite literally, left everybody staring at the future of fashion.

1997 – Matthew Williamson’s Electric Angels 
London’s new king of boho was born in September 1997 when Central Saint Martins grad Matthew Williamson made his LFW debut. Pals Helena Christensen, Jade Jagger and Kate Moss modelled three of the future star’s 14 show looks, a colour clash collection like no other before, cleverly called Electric Angels.


2006 – Christopher Kane Paints The Town Neon

One of LFW’s hottest debuts ever, Christopher Kane burst onto the radar with his SS07 collection of fluoro bandage mini dresses and left the fash pack in raptures. Those safety clip buckles are now iconic and form the super-covetable details on his classic bag line.



1995 – Stella McCartney’s Graduation Show, Guest Starring Kate Moss 

When your dad is rock royalty and your BFF is Mossy, you really don’t need to worry whether people will take any notice of your graduate collection. Kate’s did the honours at Stella’s Central Saint Martins graduation show back in 1995, conveniently causing a media storm around the rising design star.



1981 – Vivienne Westwood Plunders History
Ok, so technically this was pre-London Fashion Week (as it was named in 1984), but we couldn’t leave Vivienne Westwood’s now-legendary ‘Pirates’ collection out of our highlights. Her 1981 show at London’s Olympia was a turning point for British fashion, as bold new cuts and historical styling clashed to create an entirely new aesthetic.

2006 – Hello Henry Holland
Now the linchpin of the modern LFW set, Henry Holland started out as a journalist slash fashion groupie, making tees for his designer mates to wear when they took their post-show bows. ‘Get Your Freak On Giles Deacon‘ and ‘UHU Gareth Pugh’ quickly became London’s hottest slogans and demand grew for Henry to start his own proper line, which he dutifully did in 2006.


2013 – When Tom Came To Town 

The icon that is Tom Ford graced our capital’s style calendar for the first time in 2013, after more than a decade without showing on the runways. So to celebrate, he put on an uber glam display like no other. Justin Timberlake and Elton John sat frow-side while the collection itself was a blitz of statement embellishments, Hollywood-worthy gowns and a whole lot of hot fuzz.

2014 – Anya Hindmarch Takes Us Shopping
Accessories designer Anya’s raised the bar recently with her increasingly theatrical LFW shows. For SS15, she sent the fash pack into a literal spin on a tea cup ride, but it was AW14’s ‘Counter Culture’ show that really set the standard. There could be no better setting for her crisp packet clutches and Bourbon biscuit bags than in a giant barcode set, complete with moving conveyor belts and a troop of very useful male dancers to help pack up the shopping.


2005 – Gareth Pugh’s New Vision 

LFW didn’t really do avant-garde like this until Gareth came along. Latex met sculpture, met unicorns met, erm, inflatables at Pugh’s debut in 2005, accessorized with the world’s first serrrious flatforms.


2001 – Victoria Beckham Turns Catwalk Model

In her post-Spice Girl, pre-fashion design sensation years, Victoria Beckham had a lot more time on her hands. So, naturally, when Maria Grachvogel asked her to model her 2001 collection, Victoria obliged. Little did Maria know, however, that savvy VB was already sizing up a design career all of her own. When oh when will she make her LFW homecoming?

The post London Fashion Week’s best ever moments, revisited appeared first on Marie Claire.

AW18 Trend Report: All the looks you’ll be wearing this autumn

AW18 Trend Report: All the looks you’ll be wearing this autumn


Autumn trends 2018: it might not feel like it, but it’s time to get ahead and jump on board the new season trend train – here’s our ultimate guide to the hottest key looks to start stocking up on…

Autumn trends 2018

Yes, we know the phrase ‘autumn trends 2018’ isn’t really music to the ears right now. And yes, we know your mind’s probably occupied by summer fashion trends 2018 like crayola brights and how on earth to wear suit shorts. The current weather conditions don’t really have you thinking, ‘MUST buy more Arran knits’. But never has the saying ‘success is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration’ been more apt. The last model stalked off the last Paris Fashion Week AW18 catwalk a while ago. And after traipsing round the four fashion capitals, we’ve filtered all the shows into the best Autumn Winter 2018 trends for you. So come on, fashion fans. Time to put that Ganni sundress down and brace up.  A teeny bit of brow-mopping in the changing rooms and clever summer sales blitzing now and you’ll have your entire autumn/winter wardrobe sorted – while other, less organised beings are still panic-buying bikinis on their way to the airport. Mwah ha ha.

So, what did we learn from the NY/London/Milan/Paris AW18 Fashion Week whirl?

The buzzword of the coming season is ‘protection’ – whether it’s from the mean streets, or just from the elements, the options for cosseting and swathing yourself in layers of coverage are endless. Parkas, puffas, blankets, double (and triple) coats – if in doubt, it’s all about adding another layer. And we’re starting from the head down (mum will be pleased) – balaclavas, silk headscarves, beanies, glamorous Little Red Riding Hood style hoods for evening… basically, it’s going to be a really good season for bad hair days. Hurrah! Without further ado, here are the trends to start planning your AW18 wardrobe around.

Scroll on down for all the Autumn Winter 2018 trends to know about…

Autumn trends 2018: Check print

Autumn trends 2018

Her Majesty appearing in Richard Quinn’s frow, Prince Charles’ support of the British Fashion Council, the fashion furore surrounding The Wedding…the royals are on trend as never before. And fashion loves them right back – stiff upper lip style in the form of trad tweeds, plaids and Balmoral-perfect silk headscarves are everywhere. Quinn worked foulards (the classic patterned silk scarf) into crazy layered looks, while Paul Andrew crafted archive foulard prints into chic shirtdresses for his Ferragamo debut.

Autumn fashion trends 2018: Hats

Autumn trends 2018

Whether it’s all about drama, a move towards the modest or just being plain toasty warm – covering your head is autumn’s biggest accessory message. Raf Simons set the tone at Calvin Klein during New York Fashion Week with standout knitted balaclavas – watch out for homages galore coming to a high street near you soon. Versace was all about the 1980s-tastic coloured beret, and the large silk headscarf is your best new accessory friend. Your mum will be so pleased.

Autumn trends 2018: Puffer jackets

Autumn trends 2018

‘Protection’ was the buzzword bandied around during the shows – a sense of clothes as urban armour, whether you’re stalking the mean streets, or just battling the elements. Shows like Balenciaga, Maison Margiela and Marni sum up the season’s styling – take a functional, sports-inflected polo, pile on a coat over a jacket, and add a puffa (and then another one)…

Autumn trends 2018: Blanket coats

Autumn trends 2018

Cape lovers – there’s a new update in town. Say hello to the blanket. And it’s not even a ‘blanket coat’ as such – it is quite literally a blanket. They were draped round the girls at shows including Roksanda and Isabel Marant,  for an insouciant take on covering up for the cold. Easy to whip on, easy to take off and use for emergency winter picnics. Just joking – Roksanda’s cashmere would definitely demand a table, not grass.

Autumn trends 2018: Graphic print clothes

Autumn trends 2018

If delicate winter blooms aren’t your thing, there’s a whole other bold, non-pretty pattern trend to make a statement with. Choose from a host of graphic prints with a strong 1980s urban art vibe: Burberry’s graffiti squiggles looked as if they’d been lifted from the side of a New York subway carriage, while Jeremy Scott paid tribute to Lichtenstein cartoons at Moschino and Mary Katrantzou did bold Bauhaus lettering.

Autumn trends 2018: Colour blocking

Autumn trends 2018

Designers including Marc Jacobs and Francesco Risso at Marni brought all the joy by showing off their skills as colourists – beautiful, unusual palettes were everywhere, reminding us of some of our favourite artists. Full-on Keith Haring neon at Prada, refreshing David Hockney pastels at Eudon Choi, tonal blocking a la Rothko at Marni and amazing Matisse style primary colour combos at Marc Jacobs.

Autumn trends 2018: 70s fashion

Autumn trends 2018

It’s the decade that won’t die when it comes to recent trends. And the sepia-tinged retro mood continues for autumn. But which 1970s character are you? Roksanda’s uptown girl, Marco de Vincenzo’s flares-wearing preppy or Louis Vuitton’s sporty jersey dress fan? Whichever way you go, remember – it has to be caramel, tan, toffee, tobacco..any colour as long as it’s a variation on camel, basically.

Autumn trends 2018: Boho clothes

Autumn trends 2018

Womens’ rights, LGBTQ rights, anti-sexism, anti-Trump, plastic in the oceans…you name it, we’re feeling strongly about it. Maria Grazia Chiuri has stoked controversy – and sales – with her political slogan t-shirts at Dior. And there was another heavy waft of CND-protest feeling in her AW18 Dior collection – nuclear disarmament symbols, tufted woven-rag knits, flat caps…Elsewhere, Missoni and Peter Pilotto also made a strong case for studenty knits and tie-dye.

Autumn trends 2018: Floral prints

Autumn trends 2018

We all love a floral dress for summer, but designers are amping them up with a dark, dramatic twist for this winter too. Rendered on black backgrounds, flowers look dark and decadent – at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vacarello covered his signature micro Dynasty dresses with flowers including sequinned poppies. Over at Preen and Erdem, there was a more historical mood, with blowsy roses winding over coats and silk dresses.

Autumn fashion trends 2018: Leopard print

Autumn trends 2018

Zebra is galloping into the spotlight as the animalia du jour – see Tom Ford’s OTT red take – and luckily for the Bet Lynch at heart, there’slots of amazing leopard. And there’s a lot happening in the world of furry coats – after Gucci’s recent announcement that they would no longer use real fur, we’re pleased to say that other major luxury houses are following suit. Designer of the moment Claire Waight Keller produced silky, standout leopard coats at Givenchy – and they’re all faux. Hur-roar…

Autumn fashion trends 2018: Pajamas

Autumn trends 2018

The perfect antidote to animal print, bold colours and aggressive outerwear – say bonjour to the new AW18 update on robe dressing. Silk pajama suits, flowing belted robe coats and Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s pretty lace-trimmed separates at Chloe. And relax…

Autumn fashion trends 2018: Silver clothes

Autumn trends 2018

Global Bacofoil shortage incoming. That’s right, cool futuristic silver is the metallic to shine in. At MM6, it was head to toe (and wall to wall – the presentation took place in a blinding silver-lined room) – from trenches to boots. At Balmain, it was all about the glamazon that Olivier Rousteng loves so much, dressed in high shine lame. There was good old-fashioned movie star glamour courtesy of Givenchy’s swishy silver beading. Butif all this is making you think ‘Beam me up, Scotty’ – fear not. There are also cool, less ‘Hollywood’ takes on the trend – like the parkas at Marques Almeida and a holographic trench at Sies Marjan.

Autumn fashion trends 2018: Accessories

Autumn trends 2018

Autumn trends 2018

More is more is more. Our favourite kind of season…cowboy boots have been taking Instagram by storm and they’re set to continue as the must-have footwear trend for autumn. In keeping with all the layering going on, even scarves are getting in on the act – Karl Lagerfeld piled different coloured versions round the models’ necks at Chanel, and we are obsessed with Miu Miu’s punky retro knitted scarf-lets (is that a word? We say yes). Also on our wishlist: the giant squashy clutch, the furry Muppet bag, OTT earrings…and lastly – the cheap and cheerful banana clip. Splash out on Faustine Steinmetz – or hit the bargain bucket at the local chemist. You’re welcome!

 

 

 

The post AW18 Trend Report: All the looks you’ll be wearing this autumn appeared first on Marie Claire.